Dryer Not Heating
86Dryer Parts
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Recognizing the Problem
Has your dryer quit drying clothes in a timely manner? If the answer is yes then you will need to check a few things out. This tutorial is geared toward repairing most dryers. This may not help someone who owns a GE as they have a more complicated element and different sensor locations.
What you will need
- Multimeter
- Standard tools such as Phillips screwdriver, 5/16" nut driver, 1/4" nut driver
- Wire cutter/strippers if necessary
- Patience
What to check
- First you will need to check the voltage coming from the wall. Electric dryers in the United States require 220V at the plug. An easy check is to pull the plug out of the wall just enough for the prongs to be exposed. Take the leads from your multimeter and touch the two slanted prongs. If the reading is below 200 then you have an electrical problem and need to contact an electrician. If the voltage checks out move on to the next step.
- Second, pull the dryer hose off the back side of the dryer. You will want to check for any obvious clogs in the hose and blower housing. With the dryer unplugged reach your hand into the housing to feel for trash. Plug the dryer back in, leaving the hose off, and turn it on. Make sure there is good air flow coming out the back of the dryer. If you feel hot air coming out then your problem was a clogged blower/vent hose. If you feel cold air then move on to the next step.
- Third, unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. This step will require the use of a 1/4" and/or a 5/16" nut driver. A drill with these attachments would be easiest if available. Remove all the bolts and pull the back panel away from the dryer. Here you will be able to access the heating element and also the thermal sensors. Set your multimeter to ohms (Ω) with a beep. This will allow you to check for continuity of the element and also check the thermal fuse.
- Forth, locate the high limit thermostat and touch the multimeter leads to the two wires. If the multimeter beeps then the thermostat is good and move on to checking the thermal cutoff. If when checking the thermal cutoff you hear no beep then you have found your problem. Do not stop here as you may still have more problems. Locate the two lines which power the heating element. They will be located at the bottom in most dryer applications. Once again you will need to check for continuity, by touching the leads to each wire. If there is no beep then the heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.
Parts and their location
The Fix
- Now that you have found out your heating
element, thermal cutoff and thermostat are all bad you will need to
replace them. Write down the model number on the dryer and go to the
local parts store. Show the attendant and tell him which parts you
need.
- Replacing the parts is simple, just make sure the dryer is unplugged before you begin.
- First remove the wires attached to each sensor. I recommend working on one at a time so you do not get the parts mixed up.
- The
heating element can now be removed, there is one or two bolts holding
it in place. Put the new one in its place and plug all the wires back
up. Double check your work to make sure everything is snug before you
turn the dryer back on.
- Test the dryer before putting the
back panel back on. As soon as you see the heating element start to
glow orange turn the dryer off and put the back panel on.
Common Problems During Repair
- It is common to see wires that have been burnt and broken. Cut the broken or burnt section off and put a new terminal on.
- Putting the back panel on can sometimes be a problem, just be patient.
More parts
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CommentsLoading...
Nice Hub included with some very helpful tips.
Hi,
If Multimeter shows open for thermal cutoff, may I disconnect the wires feeding it and short them together temporally to see if dryer is back heating. Assuming other parts are ok.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Yes you can do this but I do not recommend it. If the thermal cutoff is bad there could be a reason for it. Make sure the blower and housing are clean as well as the vent leading to the outside of your house.
Thank you for your quick response. I noticed my dryer dock was smashed when
Thank you for your quick response. I noticed my dryer dock was smashed when I pulled it away from the wall. I think this burned the thermal cutoff. On the picture you have on this web "Parts and their location" where is referred to blower and housing. Why is it thermal fuse is not blown instead?
Thanks.
remove the black cover on the left side of the picture. The blower sits behind it. There are different style dryers so yours may be in a different location. The thermal fuse doesn't always blow when the cutoff goea. My guess is that they are tried by different things. Make sure your heating element isnt shorted. Check this by ohming out the two leads on the element then ohm one lead with the metal housing around the element.
Just a clarification on your last comment. I need to see a short between the two leads of heating element. However I need to see an open when ohming between each lead of thermal element and metal housing around the element. I am assuming metal housing around the element is connected to earth ground. Any Idea what is the typical maximum current allowable going through the thermal cutoff. I have a roper REX5634KQ1. It looks like
the left one you have in the "Thermal cutoff and thermostat" picture in this web link above.
Thanks.
I always set the ohm meter to beep if there is a connection (keeps things simple). Now touch each lead of the heating element, if it beeps you are good. Now touch one lead to the element and the otherto the housing. Hopefully your ohm meter wont beep. If it does then your element has shorted and it needs replacing. Hope that helps.
I am not sure what the maximum allowable current is for the cutoff.
Thanks for your clarification. Any idea how long a roper electric dryer may last. I am thinking is it a time to get a new gas dryer or fix my current 5-7 years old roper? My roper dryer seems to run fine with exception of not heating.
Do you know what is the normal measure of the preheater? ( black piece near cycling thermostat) Mine is 3 ohm. That is normal or should I change it? The cutoff is bad, so I will change it too.
I am not sure the exact readout but typically if it ohms out its good.
Yes, it worked ok even when the OMH measure is less than the others. I just needed to change the cutoff. Thanks
Is there a "cut off" to the heating element if your air flow is somehow interrupted, like the fan motor going out? Or does Kenmore just rely on the thermostats to avoid over heating of the element?
the blower is attached to the motor so it wont go out unless it physically breaks (not likely). the thermal cutoff will normally go bad due to poor air flow. the heat has nowhere to go so it overheats. poor airflow is generally caused by the vent tubing being clogged with lint.
What if i am using a analog meter
I held probes together,set zero,when i checked the element needle went to zero,same with the high limit switch,the element isually was heating ,but not all coils were red,half were red half were black,not turning red.why would it only heat hal the coils on the element?, thank you,mike
Minh 18 months ago
Excellent tips. I will have something to do this weekend. Thank you very much.